Marrakech,
a user’s manual.

Driving in Morocco

You drive on the right and most signs are in Arabic and French, so anyone used to European roads soon finds their bearings. The motorways to Casablanca and Agadir are tolled.

The rules that really differ

• Roundabouts. Depending on the junction, priority goes to vehicles already on the roundabout or to those entering. Read the sign at each entry.
• Stop signs. A full stop, wheels still, even if the road is clear. It is closely checked.
• Speed. 120 km/h on motorways. Elsewhere, go by the signs: limits change often near villages, which is where the radar checks are.
• Checkpoints. Police and gendarmerie man checkpoints at the entrance to many towns. Slow down, stop if you are waved over, and keep licence and car papers within reach.
• Alcohol. The tolerance is so low that you should treat it as zero.
• Fines. Generally paid on the spot: always ask for the receipt.

What takes getting used to

In town, the road is shared with scooters, horse-drawn carriages and pedestrians, and two-wheelers overtake on both sides: check your mirrors before changing lane. The medina is not a place to drive; leave the car in a guarded car park near one of the gates. Outside the city, avoid driving at night: poorly lit vehicles, pedestrians and animals on the road. In winter, snow can close the Tizi n’Tichka pass for a few hours.

Fuel

Stations are frequent on main roads and scarcer in the mountains: fill up before leaving the city. Check what your car runs on, “sans plomb” (petrol) or “gasoil” (diesel), and carry cash, as cards are not accepted everywhere. Your rental includes 250 km a day and the car is returned with the same fuel level as at pick-up.

Distances and day trips

Approximate distances and drive times from central Marrakech, in normal conditions and without stops.

Ourika, Imlil and Agafay fit into half a day; Essaouira and Ouzoud call for an early start. For Aït Ben Haddou, the return trip means six to eight hours at the wheel: better to take a driver for the day or one of our day trips.

During Ramadan

Ramadan follows the lunar calendar and moves about ten days earlier each year: check its dates before you book.

The city keeps working, to a different rhythm. Opening hours are shorter and many neighbourhood cafés close during the day, while most places aimed at visitors stay open. Out of courtesy, avoid eating, drinking or smoking in the street in daytime. Alcohol sales are more restricted.

In the half hour before sunset, everyone hurries home to break the fast: avoid driving just then. The city then stays lively late into the night. Morocco usually puts its clocks back one hour for the month: double-check your flight times.

Safety

Serious incidents are rare; the risks are those of any heavily visited city.

• Pickpockets. In the crowds of Jemaa el-Fna square and the souks, keep your bag closed and in front of you, your phone put away.
• Scooters in the medina. They come fast down the lanes: keep right and hold children by the hand.
• At night. Stay on lit streets, take a taxi home and keep an offline map: the medina is a maze.
• Health. Most visitors drink bottled water. Travel insurance covering medical costs is strongly recommended.
• Photos. Ask before photographing anyone; never police officers, soldiers or official buildings.

Emergency numbers, to be checked on arrival: police 19 in town, Royal Gendarmerie 177 outside towns, fire service and ambulance 15.

Common scams

• “It’s closed”, “it’s not that way”. A stranger says the street is blocked, then offers to guide you, to a shop or for a fee. Say thank you and follow your map.
• Fake guides. An official guide wears a badge. Either way, agree the price before setting off.
• Jemaa el-Fna. Henna drawn on your hand without asking, a monkey placed on your shoulder, a photo with the snakes: all of it is charged afterwards. Decline, or agree the price first.
• Petits taxis. They have a meter: ask for it to be switched on, or settle the fare before you get in.
• Souks. Prices are rarely displayed and haggling is part of the game. Talking never obliges you to buy.
• Restaurants. Ask for the menu with prices and read the bill.
• By car. Near the medina, scooter riders offer to lead you to a “car park”, for payment. Ask us instead where to park.

Travel checklist

• Passport valid for the whole stay. Entry requirements depend on your nationality: check them with an official source.
• Driving licence, valid, with an international permit if yours is not in Latin script.
• Travel insurance: medical costs and cancellation.
• Bank card: bank informed, plus some cash in your own currency to change on arrival.
• Phone: Morocco is outside the European roaming zone, so check your rates. A local SIM or eSIM (Maroc Telecom, Orange, Inwi) can be bought on arrival.
• Plugs are types C and E, at 220 V: European plugs fit, others need an adapter.
• No drone: bringing one in requires authorisation and it will be held at customs.
• Your flight number, sent to our team: the car or the driver is waiting, even if you are delayed.